You can also create your own beeswax polish, we have made a tutorial on that, as a little bonus at the end of the article, check it out if you’re interested!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Without further ado, let’s get into the 6 steps of the perfect wax finish for your wood carving.<\/p>\n\n\n\n There are a variety of methods to help complete your work to the best standard no matter what finish you choose to apply, Sanding is a process for some of them and it has its own process. If you choose to Wax, sanding will help in that preparation and enhance the work further.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Of course, be careful not to sand off some detail you include in your piece. If you are carving something small like a wooden gnome don’t go too harsh on the face as your gnome will look better with a nose rather than without one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Depending on the size, roughness, and desired quality of your project you will need to use a succession of differing sandpapers to achieve the finish you want beginning with a course paper, a medium paper and for the final finish, a smooth one. An 80 to 120 grit for rapid removal, around 150 to 240 grit for medium and 320grit or 0000 steel wool for final finish. It is important to work as much with the grain as possible. Remember that one stroke across the grain takes ten strokes with it to correct.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When you have got it smooth enough and to your satisfaction, dampen the work with a damp cloth, this will raise the grain and when it has dried off a light sanding with either fine paper of steel wool will complete the job. You can also raise the grain with methylated spirits or paint thinner to the same effect, these will also help degrease the work from the natural oils secreted from your hands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The advantage of steel wool is that it can be used as a pad and will follow the contours of an irregular carved surface better than a rigid paper which will tend to rub off the most prominent features.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The goal is to make a smooth feel that will both look good and feel good in the hand ready for waxing process to begin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n An alternative to sanding is burnishing<\/a>, or you can burnish after sanding to further enhance the work. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n This involves rubbing to work with a burnisher, the back of a gouge will do the job very effectively though traditionally the wing bone of a goose was used because of its shape being able to adopt most forms. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Burnishing compresses to surface of the timber to a beautiful sheen, this is more durable than you think and after sealing with wax or other means looks really good and is the most tactile finish of all with the added advantage of the wood keeping much of its original color.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Burnishing does not create dust of course but if you have chosen to sand your work, you will need to remove the debris so created.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The best way to do it is firstly by using a soft brush, (a makeup brush is ideal) or by blowing, either by mouth direct or blowing through a drinking straw for awkward places. If you are lucky enough to have an air compressor, blast it off with compressed air.<\/p>\n\n\n\n You could, of course, go the opposite way and suck with a vacuum cleaner. A soft cloth will often suffice but it will have to be cotton-rich and snag-free, an old tee shirt will do. A yellow duster is not good for this as it can leave yellow threads on the work.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When applying wax, use a soft cloth to apply, you can also use a toothbrush for smaller areas or for awkward detail on your wood carving, this will prevent clogging in those areas and keep them crisp.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The general rule is to apply the wax thinly with a circular motion regardless of the direction of the grain. The idea is that you want to scrub the wax into the grain especially for the first coat. If you dampen your cloth with pure turpentine (not substitute) first, this will help with penetration and flow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n You will be applying multiple coats, so don’t worry too much about the first coat being too thin, you probably want it more on the thin side rather than thick; if you put too much wax on it will clog as it dries, especially in areas of small detail and be difficult to buff up. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Read on the back of the packaging how long your wax has to dry for.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Usually, it is no longer than 15-20 minutes per coat, however, keep in mind that this can vary by a few minutes depending on the humidity and temperature of the room, as well as the type of wood that you are using.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Some waxes take less to dry with very few brands only needing a few minutes before you can apply the next coat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n After the first coat is properly dry, buff it up with a soft cloth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Polishing the wood in between layers will give it a smoother surface, the frictional heat generated by rubbing will harden the wax to allow the next coat to \u2018take\u2019 better and you would be advised to take your time with this and be patient. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The shine will gradually improve until you are satisfied with the result. Usually, 2 or 3 applications are enough for the depth of the shine to be established.<\/p>\n\n\n\n As previously mentioned, wax is the most common finish that woodcarvers use. However, that does not mean it is the best.<\/p>\n\n\n\n It is very simple to apply, is inexpensive and generally looks good on all projects, with that said, there are alternatives to wax such as:<\/p>\n\n\n\n There are others as well as some variations on each of the above, we have a whole separate article <\/em><\/strong>How To Finish a Wood Carving – 5 Different ways, <\/a>that discusses all of the above methods in more detail.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Now onto the pros and cons of finishing with wax<\/p>\n\n\n\n Wax is inexpensive and is like a universal finish for any project that you create whether it is in the style of relief, chip carving, or traditional whittling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Other advantages of wax include that you can control how much it shines by the amount force that you buff it with after application.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Lastly, wax takes much faster to apply. With some alternative methods taking several days, wax takes a maximum of 15-20 minutes per layer, and usually does not require more than an hour to complete the whole finish start to end.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The biggest disadvantage of a wax finish is that it is by far not the most durable of finishes. With finishes such as a cellulose spray or some types of oil, the wood will be better protected from physical damage and have higher durability.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Wax has a fair resistance to water, but it is far from perfect. Moisture and direct contact with water will ruin your piece over time, there is no way around that if you are using wax.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/woodiswood.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/shutterstock_333513758.jpg?resize=585%2C388&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n1. Sanding<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
2. Burnishing<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
3. Remove Wood Dust<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
4. Apply the wax<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
5. Wait For The Wax To Dry<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
6. Buffing<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Pros and Cons of finishing with wax<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Pros<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Cons<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n